Nestled in the heart of Fukushima Prefecture, Aizu is a picturesque region known for its stunning scenery, rich history, and peaceful rural charm. Surrounded by mountains and traditional towns, it offers a serene escape full of nature and culture. One detail that stayed with me was the sight of charming old-school train stations scattered throughout the area.

Day 1:

09:15 Train from Koriyama to Inawashiro

10:20 Bus from Inawashiro to Goshikinuma Ponds

11:00 Goshikunuma Ponds

13:30 Bus from Goshikinuma Ponds to Inawashiro Station

14:52 Train from Inawashiro to Aizu Wakamatsu

15:50 Bus from Aizu Wakamatsu to Ashinomaki Onsen Ookawaso (Accomodation)

Day 2:

09:50 Tonohetsuri

10:15 Yunokamionsen Station

10:30 Bus to Ouchi Juku

10:50 Ouchi Juku

12:35 Bus back to Yunokamionsen Station

13:29 Train and bus to Tsurugajo

14:30 Tsurugajo

16:30 Left Tsurugajo to head back to Koriyama

This is for those who like looking at pictures more than words. I usually do pretty detailed stories of my trip.

Part 1|Part 2

The nearest Shinkansen stop to Aizu is Koriyama Station, which is accessible via the JR East Tohoku Shinkansen line. From there, you can take local trains or buses into the Aizu region. Since we had the JR East Tohoku Pass, our train rides were covered.

Once in the Aizu area, I highly recommend getting the Aizu Gurutto Card if you’re planning to explore for two days. It costs 2720 yen and covers unlimited rides on local trains and buses within the area, including the bus to Goshikinuma Ponds from Inawashiro. It’s a digital ticket you can purchase online and show directly from your phone—just make sure you have mobile data to refresh the page when needed. The instructions are clear and it’s super easy to use.

You also get discounts at certain attractions and even the occasional freebie at restaurants or hotels, making it great value for anyone sightseeing around Aizu.

Here’s a breakdown of my transport costs and how much I saved using the Aizu Gurutto Card:

Note: There is a bus from Yunokamionsen Station to Ouchi-juku, but it’s not included in the Aizu Gurutto Pass. There is a separate pass specifically for the Ouchi-juku area, but in my case, the Gurutto Pass offered better value based on the places I visited.

Below is a screenshot of the Aizu Gurutto Pass which you just show the driver when you get on and off the train or bus.

Goshikinuma means Five Colored Ponds—and that’s exactly what you’ll find. Tucked within Bandai-Asahi National Park, this group of volcanic ponds was formed after the eruption of Mount Bandai in 1888. Thanks to the minerals left behind, each pond has its own unique hue, from vibrant turquoise to deep greens and blues.

The area is popular for its walking trail, a mostly flat 4 km route that takes about 1 hour and 20 minutes to complete. Along the way, you’ll pass five main ponds: Aonuma, Bentennuma, Midoronuma, Akanuma, and Bishamonnuma—each one offering a different shade and reflection depending on the weather and lighting.

The trail is mostly flat and peaceful, winding through forest and along quiet ponds. When I visited, it was muddy from the rain and colder than expected, with patches of lingering snow—so do be cautious if the path is slippery. I actually slipped and twisted my ankle right at the end, just as we were exiting the park (great timing, at least!). Even then, the stillness and soft colors of the ponds made the walk feel magical.

The easiest way to reach Goshikinuma is by bus from Inawashiro Station, which is accessible via the JR Ban’etsu West Line. From the station, you can take a local bus heading towards Urabandai.

If you’re using the Aizu Gurutto Card, the bus fare is covered.

For the walking trail, I started at the Urabandai Kogen-eki Bus Stop, located right next to the Urabandai Bussankan, a small tourist center that sells local souvenirs and even has a ramen shop inside (a good place to fuel up before the walk!). I ended the trail at Goshikinuma Iriguchi Bus Stop, which worked perfectly as both stops are along the same bus route.

Tip: If you’re planning to walk the trail one way, make sure to time your visit so you don’t miss the return bus. Buses aren’t super frequent, especially outside of peak season.

With 50 minutes to kill (and a freshly twisted ankle), we needed somewhere warm to wait for our train. Just across from Inawashiro Station, Manpe Café—a cute, old-school spot run by a sweet elderly lady—was the perfect hideout. It’s close enough that even I could hobble back in time without missing the train.

We ordered a Matcha Ore (600 yen), Lemon Tea (500 yen), and a Soufflé Pancake (600 yen). The drinks were especially comforting in the cold, but the highlight was definitely the pancake. While not the super jiggly kind you might expect, it was still soft, fluffy, and not overly sweet—just the way I like it. I’d absolutely recommend giving it a try if you stop by.

Manpe Address:
Ogida-12-12 Chiyoda, Inawashiro, Yama District, Fukushima 969-3133, Japan

Opening Hours:
08:00-17:00

Yes—this is the ryokan that people often say resembles the Infinity Castle from Demon Slayer, and I can definitely see why. With its multi-level walkway leading to the red open atrium, and dramatic lighting, it feels like something out of an anime. I’ll admit, this is one of the most beautiful ryokans I’ve ever stayed at.

When you check in during the afternoon, you’re even welcomed by a live shamisen performance echoing through the atrium—which makes you feel even more like you’ve stepped right into the Infinity Castle itself.

The room was huge, with plenty of space to stretch out, and it came with its own private shower and toilet—always a plus in a traditional ryokan. Best of all, it had a beautiful view overlooking the river and the valley behind the building. I spent some time just sitting by the window, letting the view distract me from my very swollen ankle. The staff were incredibly kind and attentive—after I told them about my injury, they brought me ice and even offered cooling patches, which honestly saved me for the rest of the night

A Kaiseki dinner was included in our package—and yes, there were three portions even though there were only two of us. Because it was Golden Week, there were no two-person rooms left, so we ended up booking a room for three. That meant three servings of dinner. Technically, we could have asked for just two portions… but what kind of Singaporeans would we be if we turned down extra food?

We tried our best but couldn’t finish everything. I’ll admit we were very full—but I wasn’t about to complain about the bonus sashimi. The food was overall really good, though some dishes were a bit on the heavier side. The beef, for example, was great quality with a nice marbling of fat—just a little too fatty for my personal taste.

Breakfast was a buffet spread—much lighter than dinner, and honestly, I really enjoyed it. Special mention goes to their original dish of fresh egg on rice: they topped warm rice with fluffy whipped egg whites and a raw yolk, then torched it lightly to give it that wok hei aroma. Simple, but surprisingly satisfying.

The onsen area was spacious and relaxing, with both indoor and outdoor baths. The open-air onsen faced the valley, making it the perfect spot to soak while taking in the scenic view. They also had a sauna with a unique twist—you lie down on a bed of warm stones, which was surprisingly soothing.

Ookawaso offers free shuttle service to and from Ashinomaki Onsen Station, but you’ll need to reserve it in advance. Just a heads-up—the station isn’t actually near the onsen town itself. It’s about a 10-minute drive or a 20-minute bus ride away. If you’re coming from Aizu-Wakamatsu Station, there’s also a direct bus that takes around 40 minutes—that’s the option we took to reach Ookawaso.

Ashinomaki Onsen Ookawaso
Address:
Japan, 〒969-5147 Fukushima, Aizuwakamatsu, Otomachi Oaza Ashinomaki, 字下平９８４

Special mention goes to Ashinomaki Onsen Station. Like many along the Aizu Line, it’s a quaint and picturesque stop—but what makes it extra special is its cat station masters. Yes, actual cats! If you’re a cat lover, this place is a must-visit.

On the day we visited, Sakura was on duty! While photos aren’t allowed, they do place the station master on the yello bench by the tracks before the train arrives, so you can say a quick hello.

Here’s a bonus shot of the cat-themed train on the Aizu Line, inspired by its beloved station masters. Who knows—you might just ride it on your visit!

I should mention that I’m not sure what hours the cat station masters are there or if they’re there every day. When we visited, it was around 9:30 a.m. on a Thursday morning.

Tō-no-Hetsuri literally means “cliff overlooking a river,” and it lives up to the name. This striking natural formation stretches about 200 metres, with dramatic, jagged cliffs that have been sculpted over millions of years by erosion. It truly a beautiful sight and the quiet walk along the river makes you wonder why this place is not mentioned more often as a place to visit.

There’s a bridge across the river for a closer look, but we had to rush for our train and couldn’t explore further. It’s definitely a place we wished we had more time to enjoy.

It’s not a big site and doesn’t take long to explore, but it’s peaceful and defnitely worththe stop. And if you’re visiting in autumn, I hear the fall foliage here is something else.

To-no-hetsuri
Opening Hours:
24 Hours

Admission:
Free

Step back in time at Ouchi-Juku, a former Edo-period post town where thatched-roof houses still line the main street. Many of the buildings now serve as shops selling handmade crafts and local specialties, preserving the charm of old Japan.

At the end of the main street, a flight of stairs leads up to a small shrine—and the best viewpoint of the village. The steps might look intimidating, but don’t worry—there’s an easier, gentler path to the left if you’d rather skip the workout.

Here’s the shot of the village from the viewpoint. 

One of the unique local dishes to try is Negi Soba—buckwheat noodles eaten with a long green onion instead of chopsticks. (Don’t worry, they still give you proper chopsticks too!) You can eat the onion, but be warned—it’s spicy and packs a punch. It’s a quirky experience and makes for a fun photo. Several shops along the street serve it, so I just went with the one that had the shortest queue.

You can take a train to Yunokamionsen Station. After exiting the station, turn left and head down the sloped path—you’ll soon see the bus stop for the Saruyu-go Bus, which goes to Ouchi-Juku. You can find the bus timings on their website. If possible, try to book tickets in advance, as priority is given to those with reservations. That said, I honestly had no idea how to reserve them—we were lucky there weren’t many people when we arrived, and on the return trip we got there early enough to get a seat.

Do note: This bus isn’t covered by the Aizu Gurutto Card. A round-trip ticket costs 1100 yen. There’s also a discount combo ticket that includes the train ride from Aizu-Wakamatsu, but again, the information is only available in Japanese.

Ouchi-Juku
Admission:
Free

Tsurugajo Castle is one of Aizu-Wakamatsu’s most iconic landmarks. While the current structure is a reconstruction, it’s been beautifully restored and offers panoramic views from the top. Its distinctive red tile roof—uncommon in Japan—stands out against the crisp white walls, said to resemble a crane (“tsuru” means crane in Japanese), which is how the castle got its name.

Inside, the castle museum offers a glimpse into the region’s samurai heritage, with artifacts, historical displays, and exhibits on the Boshin War. I especially enjoyed seeing the unique helmets worn by the feudal lords of the castle—they were unlike anything I’d seen before.

Before you exit the castle, don’t miss the large gift shop near the exit—it’s a great place to pick up local Fukushima specialties, souvenirs, and treats to bring home.

After exploring the castle, we walked over to Rinkaku Tea House, a quiet retreat tucked in the castle grounds. The tea house has historical significance too—it was once used by the feudal lords—and offers a serene spot to take in the scenery.

We were lucky to catch a lovely view of the castle framed by the last of the cherry blossoms from here.

Tsurugajo
Opening Hours:
08:30-17:00

Admission:
410 yen (Castle Tower )
520 yen (Castle Tower + Rinkaku Teahouse set ticket)
With the Aizu Gurutto Card, the set ticket is discounted to 410 yen.